Usually, we meticulously prepare for all our trips, studying maps, places worth seeing, and restaurants worth visiting. However, we stumbled upon the Kakopetria village in the Troodos Mountains by chance. I wasn’t even aware of the existence of this charming town in Cyprus, but I was delighted to find myself inside the old village formerly known as Mesopotamia. It stands between two rivers, and the word “Mesopotamia” translates to “place between two rivers.”
The ancient village of Kakopetria and its charm.
Kakopetria village was born in ancient times and found its home behind high mountains, dense forests, and cold rivers. Now it stands somewhere in the depths of Troodos, a hunched and limping village on the banks of the two full-flowing rivers, Karkotis and Garillis. It is a village that every avid traveler aspires to visit – the most romantic village in Troodos, and perhaps all of Cyprus.
Wrapped in ancient beliefs and enchanted by the charm of nature, this ramshackle village is nestled in the colorful valley of Solea, seven hundred meters above sea level. The village of Kacopetria, lost in the mountains, has been preserving its dilapidated stone houses for centuries. The Franks used to come here on vacation, as they were very fond of the Troodos mountains. Kakopetria is so small that no more than two thousand inhabitants live here, where almost everyone rents a house or a room for tired travelers.
Walk out to the river and see how swiftly it runs, adorning the local landscape. Stroll through the narrow streets, admire the local cottages and the settled life. The stone buildings were built in the 18th century from stone, clay and wood. They were built for centuries and now these marvelous mountain houses delight travelers. The stone alleyway runs upwards, calling to the old times, to the local village life. The cozy courtyards are narrow and dark and smell of damp.
One of the things I love most about exploring a new place is discovering hidden gems. In the Troodos Mountains, there are plenty of them. Read posts about the most beautiful villages in this area – Omodos and Lefkara. I highly recommend visiting them if you find yourself in Cyprus.
All day long, like diligent bees, local women hover over pickled mushrooms and vegetables, tend to the salting of olives, create rosewater, and make spicy jams from various berries and fruits, including the local delicacy karidaki – jam made from walnuts in sugar syrup with candied orange peels.
Once everything is ready, hardworking grandmothers arrange the jam in glass jars and place them on tables near their homes. They sit on the porch, waiting for curious passersby. As soon as a grandmother sits down, her cat assistant immediately joins her, twitching its tail and inviting travelers to the friendly hostess’s counter. Take a sample of the most delicious jam from her – glyko.
Legend about The Bad Stone.
But it’s not the grandmothers with their cats who are the main characters of this village – it’s a large dark gray stone. Thanks to it, the village got its name. “Kaki petra” translates from Greek as “bad stone.” The reason for this inauspicious name lies in a legend of tragic love. For a long time, there was a local tradition in the village that tragically came to an end. On a small hill stood a stone that always brought good luck. Newlyweds would approach it, climb onto the boulder, and make wishes, asking for happiness and good fortune. But one day, a young couple approached to receive blessings, and the stone accidentally rolled over them and crushed them. They couldn’t escape the unexpected tragedy. It is said that the movement of the stone could have been caused by an earthquake. Now the legendary stone is called the “spouses’ stone,” which still stands under the tree at the entrance to the old part of the village, behind the restaurant “The Village Pub & Restaurant.” There’s no need to fear the stone; it has been secured to prevent any potential movement. It is believed that it still brings happiness, luck, and love as stable as the stone itself to those who approach it. This large boulder divided the village into two parts: the old and the new.
If you are looking for something new to expand your exploration of Cyprus, head to the Troodos Mountains. It’s the perfect area to delve deeper into the island and discover even more hidden gems. More information about the Troodos Mountains can be found here.
Traditional hotels in Kakopetria.
Here, not only do you find picturesque surroundings, wonderful climatic conditions, and enchanting beauty, but also everything you need for a relaxing stay. There are small hotels and traditional taverns. If you’re planning to visit Kakopetria, consider staying overnight.
These two hotels, Linos Inn and The Mill Hotel, deserve special attention. They stand out from the others due to their architecture and the organic atmosphere reflecting the traditions of the entire Solea Valley, set against the misty mountain landscapes.
The Linos Inn hotel is located in the heart of the old village (Palia Kakopetria Street, 34). Once you step inside, you’ll be greeted by the scent of dry wood, antique trinkets, reminiscent of your country house – the same aroma you’ll find at the Linos hotel. Walk a bit further, and various kitchen aromas will reach you – the smell of fish soup, delicate fried meat, and Cypriot coffee.
Antique pieces coexist with modern decor and a Jacuzzi. The atmosphere of the Linos restaurant will transport you back centuries. Now, what to choose for lunch? Among the diverse dishes, one of the most popular local items is served here – “pestrofu,” which is trout served with garlic sauce. There are also snails, seafood in tomato sauce, eggplant caviar, ostrich meat, “pasturma” sausages, and home-brewed wine served in a clay jug.
The clean mountain air, giving your cheeks a rosy hue, mixes with the songs of chirping birds. Morning rays creep into the room, and the scent of a smoking oven wafts from another hotel – The Mill Hotel. It’s named Mill for a reason. It was built near an old mill, its weathered facade leaning at the foot of the modern hotel. Next to it, a stone bridge crosses the river, featuring the history of the mill carved on its surface.
If you’re planning your first visit to Cyprus, here’s a list of the most beautiful places that I strongly recommend not to miss!
Milos Mill.
The Kakopetria village formed here for a reason. Cyprus is a very dry country, as you may have noticed while driving, seeing only dry fields and steppes. Water has always been a significant issue here. The presence of two rivers quickly attracted people for whom water became a source of power. Many mills were built on the banks of these rivers, and our Milos mill in the hotel was built by a monk, later gifted to the St. Nicholas monastery beyond Kakopetria.
Due to its large size, the mill became incredibly popular in the country, attracting people from all corners of Cyprus. Transportation was challenging back then, and the journey was long and tiring, lasting over 12 days. Four days were spent on the way to the mill, four days waiting in queues, and four days on the return journey.
All the monks left the mill, and it was leased to the locals. With enough money, the villagers managed to buy it and the land for building a new village. The mill successfully operated, and only 35 years ago did they start importing flour into the village. The mill fell into disrepair. But now, a wonderful Milos hotel has grown in its place, known to all. You can enjoy delicious food, admire the surrounding nature, and simply have a cup of Cypriot coffee. To make your lunch even more enjoyable, sit on the open veranda of the restaurant. Here, you’ll be surrounded by mountains, and you’ll hear the sound of the Solia Valley stream.
If you love villages and are looking for other beautiful places to explore throughout Cyprus, check out information about the Liopetri village, which I wrote about recently. It may not be in the Troodos Mountains, but I also recommend visiting it. Despite being small and secluded, this village is very quiet! You can hear any sound and nothing but silence at the same time. It’s truly a wonderful feeling.
The Bridge.
In the Kakopetria village, two full-flowing rivers flow, never drying even in summer. The river doesn’t idle; it runs swiftly, singing its fleeting songs under the gray stone bridge. Climb the bridge, look down at the swift stream, seemingly escaping and hiding somewhere in the depths of silver rocks. Admire this unusual place, feel the forest aromas, hear the rustle of leaves, and the joyful splashes of fish in the creek. Along the water, fruit orchards of apples, plums, and grapes will grow. In addition to growing vegetables and fruits, silk worms were once bred here, and silk was made from them.
What a wonderful and organic place. And this bridge was built over many centuries, and surprisingly, its construction didn’t forget about beauty. This medieval structure turned out to be so poetic. For me, this bridge is a symbol of a strong, loving family. Look at the two arches, as if two lovers stretch towards each other from one bank to another. How unstable they are, the slightest push, and the bridge will collapse. But they came together, leaned on each other, and now support each other for centuries.
How to get to Kakopetria.
To reach Kakopetria, head towards the Troodos Mountains. From Nicosia, take the B9 highway or a regular bus from the city’s main station.
I highly recommend traveling around Cyprus by your own transport, as it’s one of those regions where it’s easiest to get around by car! Moreover, many attractions are quite far apart. Don’t have your car? Why not rent one for a day or two? Check prices and availability of cars here.
Check Aviasales to find the cheapest flights to Cyprus if you’re planning a trip from another country.
The scents of rare herbs and the coolness of water bodies give a complete feeling that you’re in the mountains. When you come to Kakopetria, have a picnic, explore nearby bike routes, or simply stroll through the village on foot.
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