There is hardly a more sinister and mystical place than Kostnica, located in the small Czech town of Kutna Hora. When a person gets here, everything changes for him, he begins to experience completely different sensations: a confined space, constantly pressing on the psyche eye sockets of skulls, as if looking at you, shaky semi-darkness and shivering throughout the body…. Let’s walk through the Sedlec Ossuary in Kutna Hora in the Czech Republic and see everything.
Kutna Hora is a place situated just 60 kilometers from Prague. Once considered a treasure for the country, a precious gem in a lovely setting, it became the center of a silver rush over time. Silver was mined here in vast quantities.
Gothic Bone Church.
Today, people from all corners of the planet come to visit the bone repository located on the outskirts of the town—in Sedlec. This small Gothic chapel of All Saints is entirely made of human bones and skulls of those who perished from the plague. Horror is roughly the feeling that hits you as you approach the chapel.
The church stands on the grounds of an old cemetery. Inside the church, everything is modest. Apart from the thousands of empty eye sockets, the only noticeable items are the confessional, angel figurines, and benches for parishioners. Huge windows through which soft light streams make the Ossuary even more Gothic.
You are shocked by the massive chandelier made of hundreds of white bones and the masterful coat of arms of the noble Schwarzenberg family, who once owned these lands. Do you want to experience a mind-shattering emotional contradiction? It’s hard to believe that the coat of arms, chandelier, and garland are all expertly crafted from human bones.
This place is contradictory because, after just a couple of minutes of initial shock, you calmly stand and examine each garland part by part. Here’s a clavicle, a rib, a finger, a vertebra, and maybe a shin bone. It all seems unreal. How could the idea to create such an interior in a church come to mind?
If you are looking for unusual and interesting places in the Czech Republic, check out my posts about the spa town of Karlovy Vary and Stunning Prague.
Following the history of the Ossuary.
How can one not go mad, arranging bone after bone in a certain order? Whoever created this was clearly endowed with a sick imagination. But after another twenty minutes, I began to ponder the history of the Ossuary, agreeing more and more with the correctness of the decision.
The church was “decorated” with 40,000 human skeletons by František Rint. All the bones are real, and before being placed on the walls, in the chandelier, or simply stacked in piles, they were stored in the chapel’s premises. There were so many bones that the cemetery simply ran out of burial space.
During the plague, all the spots in the cemetery were occupied. People removed remains from graves to make room for new burials. But where to put the old skeletons? If you discard them, where? That’s how the Ossuary appeared, with all its skulls and skeletons. František organized them in a way that leaves you speechless, with hair standing on end not just on your head.
The Sedlec Ossuary in Kutna Hora makes you think about the fleeting nature of life, about eternity, and what will become of us. “What you are now, we once were; what we are now, you shall be…” (s)
But there are not only terrible things in Kutna Hora. The titanic St. Barbara’s Cathedral is incredibly photogenic and beautiful. Huge stained glass windows tell the history of Kutna Hora. Luxurious icons, an impressive organ, and pristine frescoes will leave pleasant memories after visiting this eerie town.
How to get to Kutna Hora from Prague.
Here’s a detailed guide to help you get there:
By Train:
- Head to Prague’s Main Railway Station (Praha hlavní nádraží).
- Trains to Kutná Hora usually leave every hour.
- You can buy tickets at the station or online via the Czech Railways website.
- The journey takes approximately 1 hour.
- Look for trains heading to Kutna Hora hlavní nádraží (Kutna Hora main station).
- From the main station, you can either take a local train to Kutna Hora město (a smaller station closer to the town center) or a bus/taxi.
- Alternatively, it’s about a 3 km walk to the Sedlec Ossuary.
By Car:
- From Prague, take the D11 highway towards Hradec Králové.
- Take the exit for Kutna Hora and follow the signs.
- There are parking lots near the Sedlec Ossuary.
- Driving takes around 1-1.5 hours depending on traffic.
- I highly recommend traveling by car, as it is the most convenient and direct option. If you don’t have a car, you can rent one at very reasonable prices here.
Check Aviasales to find the cheapest flights to Prague if you are traveling from another country.
Atmospheric hotels near the Ossuary in Kutna Hora.
For those looking to extend their stay in this historic town, there are several atmospheric hotels nearby that perfectly complement the Ossuary’s unique charm.
Vila U Varhanáře: Perched on a hill overlooking the historic center, Vila U Varhanáře offers stunning views and a serene setting. This boutique hotel features elegant rooms with a mix of modern amenities and traditional decor. Guests can enjoy panoramic vistas of the town from the hotel’s terrace or relax in the beautifully landscaped garden. The in-house restaurant serves gourmet dishes, making it a great spot for a romantic dinner after a day of sightseeing.
Hotel Opat: Another excellent choice near the Sedlec Ossuary in Kutna Hora is Hotel Opat. Situated in a historic building dating back to the 11th century, this hotel exudes an old-world charm that matches the town’s historical vibe. The rooms are spacious and well-appointed, offering a cozy retreat after visiting the nearby sights. Hotel Opat is renowned for its warm hospitality and offers a complimentary breakfast to start your day. Its central location means you’re just a stone’s throw away from not only the Ossuary but also other notable attractions like St. Barbara’s Church.
Hotel U Ruze: Located just a short walk from the Ossuary, Hotel U Ruze offers a blend of modern comfort and historical ambiance. This charming hotel is housed in a beautifully restored medieval building, providing guests with an authentic taste of Kutna Hora’s rich past. The rooms are elegantly furnished, and the hotel features a delightful garden and terrace, perfect for relaxing after a day of exploration. The on-site restaurant serves delectable Czech cuisine, making it an ideal spot to savor local flavors.
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